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I first visited the Prokletije mountains back in 2004, staying a few days in a mountain hut in the Grbaja Valley in Montenegro. One day I walked along the Ropojana Valley – a broad ribbon of green framed by limestone peaks, their tops festooned with clouds – towards a lonely lake on the border with Albania. The Peaks of the Balkans wasn’t yet born at that time, the Montenegrin part of Prokletije had not yet been declared a national park, and the only people we encountered on these well-marked trails through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery anywhere in Europe were a handful of Albanian children gathering wild strawberries. It all seemed fantastically, almost unbelievably remote and unspoilt. Returning to Prokletije in 2016 to research and write this guide, I was pleased to find that feeling of isolation little changed.

Key facts and figures Montenegro Country name Montenegro (Crna gora) Capital Podgorica Language Montenegrin (Serbian) Currency Euro Population 625,266 (2011 census) Land surface area 14,026km2 Time zone GMT +1 (CET) International telephone code +382 Electricity 220V/50Hz Albania Country name Republic of Albania (Albanian: Shqipëri; Gheg dialect: Shqipni) Capital Tirana (alternative spelling: Tiranë) Language Albanian Currency Lek Population 2.8 million (2011 census) Land surface area 28,748km2 Time zone GMT +1 (CET) International telephone code +355 Electricity 220V/50Hz Kosovo Country name Republic of Kosovo (Albanian: Kosova) Capital Pristina (alternative spellings: Prishtina, Priština) Languages Albanian and Serbian Currency Euro Population 1.9 million (estimate) Land surface area 10,908km2 Time zone GMT +1 (CET) International telephone code +382 Electricity 220V/50Hz

Geography and geology

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