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Hut life

A typically stunning hut location – the Olpererhütte (Stage 11)

Mountain huts date back to the explosion of Alpine tourism in the late 19th century and were mainly developed by the German/Austrian Alpenverein (Alpine Club). The nearest non-alpine equivalent is a youth hostel. There are hundreds of them scattered across the Alps and, typically built before the emergence of town planners, they often command a dramatic location. They provide food, beer, accommodation and usually a shower (in limestone areas water is sometimes in short supply). Sleeping accommodation is in open dormitories or smaller rooms although you should expect to share even in the smaller rooms. Huts are a key part of the alpine tradition and come with a number of quirky rules. They are, however, very convivial, never run out of beer and after a good day in the mountains they provide an opportunity for some sleep (depending on your room-mates).

The first hut, the Tutzinger, provides a foretaste of what’s to come. Once you’ve arrived and armed yourself with a beverage it’s time to look at the menu and contemplate hut cuisine. It changes gradually after you cross into Italy but the Tyrolean influences persist for some time. It is not fine dining and is best described as ‘hearty’. Standard fare includes: soups (Suppe) with large dumplings – either Leberknödel (liver dumpling) or Speckknödel (ham dumpling); Gulasch, often served with dumplings (Semmelknödel); spaghetti Bolognese and, of course, large sausages (Bratwurst) served with bread, mustard and sauerkraut. It’s not ideal for vegetarians. In German and Austrian huts the Bergsteigeressen (literally ‘mountain climber’s food’) is usually the lowest cost option on the menu. Consisting of some sort of meat served with pasta, dumplings or potatoes, it is filling and good value. On the German side of the border, the best part of the meal – a major Austrian/German contribution to world welfare – is the desert where the nightly choice between wonderful Apfelstrudel (apple pastry) or Kaiserschmarrn, (a shredded pancake favoured by Emperor Franz Joseph) is a regular challenge.