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Choose the right branch, which leads past the jumbled rocks of Truckle Crags, a prominent vantage breaking the vast rolling sea of heather and bilberry, and on to Simon’s Seat further to the north, distinguished from the other craggy islands by its size and a trig column adorning its highest boulder.

Having taken your fill of the view, clamber back off the summit, but instead of returning along the path past Truckle Crags, descend south west on a short section of paved way, refurbished in an effort to reduce erosion. Dropping steadily along the flank of Barden Fell, the path makes for the corner of a forest plantation rising in the middle distance. Below, the Wharfe sweeps a corner to drop through a wooded gorge, although from here it is evident that it once described a longer course to the east around Haugh.

As you reach the plantation, cross a stream and join a descending track that soon turns into the forest. Emerging below zigzags at a clearing, take the right fork and continue downhill to Howgill. Looking back to the forest fringe, the upper reaches of How Beck are spanned by an elegantly arched aqueduct carrying water from the Grimwith Reservoir high up on Appletreewick Moor.

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