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As a minimum, three nights will be spent in huts on the Austrian side of the border, where German-style food is provided. Similar food is provided in the small hotels and is best described as ‘hearty’ rather than fine dining. Standard fare includes soup (Suppe) with large dumplings – either Leberknödel (liver dumplings) or Speckknödel (ham dumplings); Gulasch, often served with dumplings (Semmelknödel); spaghetti bolognese; and, of course, large sausages (Bratwurst) served with bread, mustard and sauerkraut. Less common in the huts but available everywhere else in Austria is the Austrian equivalent of fish and chips, a type of schnitzel cordon bleu, consisting of white meat (veal, turkey, chicken or pork) wrapped around cheese, with a covering of breadcrumbs and deep fried. This is not the best place for vegetarians. Vegetarian food may be available, but (even if you give advance notice) don’t expect the standard to be anything more than basic.


Austrian hut cuisine

It sounds like a cliché but the food just across the border (at Wolayersee there is an Austrian hut and an Italian hut within 200 metres of each other) improves dramatically. The full range of rustic Italian food becomes available – antipasti, pasta and rich main courses – and there is suddenly a choice of wine. The Rifugio Marinelli is my favourite hut anywhere in the Alps and serves wonderful food (restaurant standard), with an emphasis on friendliness rather than efficiency.

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