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Alpine flowers: (clockwise from top left) stemless gentian, hellebore and alpenrose

The last brown bears were exterminated in the Bavarian Alps in the 19th century and the wolf and lynx fared no better – small populations have managed to survive, however, in a few isolated regions elsewhere in the Alps. In the absence of predators the herbivores have managed to do quite well, although even here a few species have been reintroduced after over-hunting and loss of habitat decimated local populations. Among the larger animals you are most likely to encounter are red deer (in the lower forested regions), chamois and ibex. Large birds such as the capercaillie and black grouse are very rare, while the golden eagle and bearded vulture are still struggling to re-establish themselves after being brought to the verge of extinction.

If the above sounds like a rather depressing litany of ecological disaster it might be a relief to know that the alpine chough is quite common and continues to amuse mountain walkers with its acrobatic flight techniques and the undivided interest it shows in the contents of one’s lunch box. Ptarmigan are found in high alpine regions where their plumage blends in perfectly with the light grey rocks. In winter they turn snow-white (like the snow hare) so it takes a bit of luck, and a keen eye, to see them at any time of the year. Marmots usually leave you in no doubt as to their existence by emitting a shrill warning cry as soon as you approach. In some places they have grown so used to the presence of people that they are content to just stare back at you from the vicinity of their holes. The burrows which these small, furry rodents dig are quite impressive: up to 10m long and 3m deep.

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