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Every village has one or two bars called a kocsma, italbolt, söröző or eszpresszó, which is usually a very basic affair, full of men, and often does not have a women’s toilet, but despite this they are not hostile places for women. When entering a bar it is proper to greet the occupants with the polite address. If you are a man do not be surprised if locals coming into the bar shake everyone’s hand including yours before going up to order a drink. Some villages have a restaurant geared to the tourist trade offering excellent dishes made from locally caught game. Menus often have English and German translations.

Camera film is rarely available in the countryside, but try the post office, where postcards and maps are also on sale. For walking and camping gear Budapest and Miskolc have several shops which stock a variety of camping stove gas canisters and insect repellent (see Appendix 4).

Most villages run an annual fair (búcsú) or folk festival (fsalunapok) which celebrates the wine harvest or the end of winter. The festival may involve a church procession, outdoor concerts, marching bands, and women in regional costume. There are also less traditional music festivals and art days set in pretty regions such as the Káli-medence in the Balaton Uplands or the Zemplén. Check with the local branch of Tourinform for details of any festivals in the area. Many villages have a tiny museum of local life and traditions, or tájház. Unfortunately the museum is often locked, although the curator can be contacted at the address on the fence or in the window. Locals are usually helpful and if they spot a tourist lurking around the museum they will pass the message on to the curator who probably lives in the village. Museums are closed on Mondays.