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Now a winding road climbs south, high above the turrets and colonnades of landmark Arquata del Tronto on the ancient Roman artery, the Via Salaria. Veering west, this strategic road passes Forca di Presta, whose rifugio is a transit point for the GAS and start for Walks 17 and 20. A separate branch from Arquata del Tronto leads to Forca Canapine with accommodation and access to both Walk 21 and the GAS. Forking north from here, a minor road traverses the wondrous and unworldly Piano Grande to Castelluccio. This jumble of tumble-down houses occupies a hilltop belvedere that swarms with visitors during the fiorita in early June, when the lentil fields explode with wildflowers. Advance booking for accommodation is recommended then. It does have a bus service – on Thursdays – when the gregarious Castelluccio housewives ride down to Norcia for the weekly market. Walks 14, 16, 18 and 19 start at Castelluccio.


Preci cascades down a hillside (Walk 13)

Norcia is another key gateway to the Sibillini and has fine tourist facilities and good bus links. Sometimes called Nursia in English, the town’s name comes from Northia, Goddess of Fortune, venerated by the Etruscans. This relaxed, charming town is set amidst vast farming plains on the easternmost edge of Umbria. Best known as the birthplace of high profile St Benedict, founder of the Benedictine monastic movement, for Italians it is also famous for norcineria or the noble art of sausage and salami making. Shop fronts are draped with strings of tasty specimens and even family names reflect the ancient trade (such as Ansuini, from ‘swine’). Though a little out of the way for the bulk of the walks, Norcia is handy for Walk 14.

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