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Note If the car park by Ogwen cottage is full you could set out from one of the other parking areas or laybys along the lake’s N shoreline, though you then have a damp cross-country trek with little in the way of an established path to reach Bochlwyd.

Tryfan is awesome in its severity, its W face scree path revealed in distressing clarity. R is the serrated Gribin ridge, backed by Y Garn, impassive as always. Behind you is the heathery bulk of Pen yr Ole Wen, ahead the untrodden solitude of Cwm Bochlwyd (Valley of the Grey Cheek) squeezed between the stupendous, broken cliffs of Glyder Fach and Castell y Gwynt.

On resuming the track climbs above the E shoreline. After 100yd a faint path tiptoes away L for the col between Tryfan’s S and far S peaks (ssss1). The main track trends L to cross the high-level pass of Bwlch Tryfan near a brace of stiles over a wall at 662588. In season this is a major crossroads. Tryfan’s S ridge is L, Bristly Ridge R and, straight ahead, the greeny-brown marshes of Cwm Tryfan. The miners’ track continues SE, the way never in doubt. It curls round the headwall of Cwm Tryfan, beneath the screes of Bristly Ridge, in scenery that is never less than riveting, and breasts the spongy saddle of Bwlch Caseg-fraith at 667583. Only a 750ft grind remains, up a well-cairned path that grows stonier and rockier with every step.