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This is boulder-hopping on the grandest scale! Scabrous, posturing monoliths and spiky tors weave ghostly apparitions in mist and create a landscape of lunar abandon and wanton desolation. Wastes of boulders and rivers of rocky debris litter the narrow plateau that stretches to Glyder Fach in a highway made for giants.

Like good wine, the walk to Glyder Fach should be savoured gently and lingered over. Above all keep to the edge, for beneath the shattered N escarpment (replete with bulging crags, intimidating cliffs, and torrents of scree) lies the heartland: Llyn Idwal, the Nameless Cwm cupped between Seniors Ridge and Y Gribin, Llyn Ogwen and Llyn Bochlwyd, nestling in the shadow of Bristly Ridge and Tryfan.

To the S a myriad of peaks pierce the sky, but beware the slopes. They may look pretty and innocent, cloaked in a mantle of rich purple heather and dappled with knolls and rocky bluffs, but they are a nightmare – apart from a couple of established paths. The glitter of Llyn Cwmffynnon is one of the biggest snares of all, concealing a squelchy morass of glutinous bog.