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Rif. Gardetta (Stage 12)

Several villages en route have modest hotels. Should you yearn for freshly ironed sheets and a large clean bath towel – not to mention privacy – it’s often no more than a few euros’ difference between staying at one of these or at the posto tappa.

RIFUGIO NORMS

 Boots are left on a rack at the entrance, where flip-flops are often provided.

 Service ceases from 10pm to 6am, which also means ‘lights out’ (the generator goes off).

 Unless otherwise indicated, payment is only accepted in euros cash.

 Remember that the majority of rifugi rely on costly helicopter transport for delivering supplies, once or twice per season. Fresh produce is rare.

 The dedicated staff have to be capable of dealing with everything from a blocked toilet, frozen pipes, refilling a diesel-powered generator, lugging firewood and provisions up steep stairs, repairing pumps and solar panels, organising rescue operations for walkers… and are expected to be gourmet chefs as well!

Cooking polenta at Rif. Arlaud (Stage 22)