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Desserts are topped by luscious bônet, vaguely reminiscent of crême caramel but flavoured with rum and amaretti, bitter almond cookies. Somewhat similar in taste are baked apricots topped with the same crushed biscuits plus chocolate. The ultimate for the sweet-toothed is to indulge in the renowned, unbelievably rich chocolates invented in Cuneo and appropriately called Cuneesi. These are treacherous masses of soft dark cocoa mass moulded around an unbelievably rich soft centre of rum-flavoured cream, the classical flavour al rhum, though they also come with hazelnut fillings. (The best come from elegant café Pasticceria Arione in the city’s main square.)

Cheeses maturing at Alpe Maccagno (Stage 41)

On the wine front, Piedmont is arguably Italy’s leading region for the production of memorable vintages, dominated by reds. While very drinkable house wines (vino della casa) are normally served, special occasions warrant splashing out for a bottle. Sturdy tannic Barbera, prestigious Barolo and Nebbiolo rank among the top reds, with Freisa and Grignolino not far behind. Another favourite is softer Dolcetto. In a class of its own is excellent Gattinara, which hails from the vicinity of Varallo. Little-known wines include Ormeasco, a light fresh young red from near the GTA start, while deep-coloured Carema from the lower Valle d’Aosta is gaining attention for its quality. There are fewer white wines, but noteworthies include Chardonnay and lightweight special Blanc de Morgex from the Valle d’Aosta region.