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Piedmont cheeses deserve a guide all to themselves. In general, farm-made cheeses are called toma and produced from either latte di mucca/vacca (cows’ milk), pecora (sheep), capra (goat) or a combination. The smaller, more pungent, rounds are tomini, sprinkled liberally with chilli powder or aromatic herbs. One notable cheese from the Ligurian valleys is raschera, made from cows’ milk, usually in traditional square forms and originally flavoured with grape residue. Connoisseurs will also appreciate testun, whose ochre-coloured crust protects a well-seasoned sheep’s cheese. A sister to the mighty Gorgonzola is Murianengo, produced in the Susa valley. The Valle d’Aosta boasts a milder but full-fat creamy cheese known as fontina which comes in oversized 15–20kg rounds and is delicious melted in risotto or fonduta. The Canavese valleys produce curious brüs, a highly peppered cottage cheese, while Valsesia boasts fragrant delicate rounds of piodino made from cows’ milk as well as the unusual salugnun, a fresh cheese flavoured with pepper and cumin. Ricotta, a fresh soft cheese that is totally unsuitable for rucksack travel, demands consumption on the spot.

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