Читать книгу Empire in Waves. A Political History of Surfing онлайн
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Along the way the yacht would stop in Morocco, Madeira, the Canary Islands (where Troy found “the best surfing conditions outside Biarritz”), and several places in the Caribbean.15 When Troy reached Florida, he was quickly adopted by Miami’s “surfing fraternity”—a term he applied to his fellow surfers worldwide—which showed him around the city and introduced him to the Florida waves.16 Desperate to make it to California, he found work as a driver, delivering a vehicle across the United States to Los Angeles, from where he immediately boarded a flight to Hawai‘i. He did so, he wrote to his parents, “with visions in my mind of the lei clad Hawaiian girls in costume and the balmy weather of this romantic island group blessed with the best climate of any place in the world and the venue for the International and World surfing Championships at Makaha—my dream of a lifetime almost now in reality—in fact, no turning back even if I wanted to.”17
Troy was not able to compete at Makaha; the start of the contest was moved up because of favorable wave conditions, and Troy arrived too late. He did, however, get to surf the warm Hawaiian waters, though a couple of unfortunate wipeouts at Pipeline and Sunset Beach left him with a badly lacerated face and coral abrasions on the shoulder, back, right foot, and elbow.18 From Hawai‘i he would be going to Peru, but Troy first took a return detour to California—a state whose wealth and technology amazed him. The day the Australian spent viewing the ostentatious lifestyle of Los Angeles’s rich and famous was “one of the most eye[-]opening days I have yet had the fortune to live.”19 But California was intended as a mere stopover. Traveling through Mexico by automobile and train, Troy departed from Mexico City with a friend for Lima. In the Peruvian capital, he proceeded to the coastal district of Miraflores, the heart of the Peruvian surf community, which had a long history. As far back as 3000 BCE, indigenous fishermen in Peru were riding waves on bundled reeds now called caballitos (little horses). However, the country’s modern surfing history dates only to the 1920s, when a number of Peruvians took to riding homemade boards on the beaches of Barranco, a popular community along the Lima coast. Then, in 1939, Carlos Dogny, a wealthy sugarcane heir, returned from a trip to Hawai‘i, where he had learned to surf, bringing with him a board he was given by Duke Kahanamoku. At Miraflores in 1942, Dogny founded Club Waikiki.20