Читать книгу Empire in Waves. A Political History of Surfing онлайн

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As the jaunt in landlocked Paraguay suggests, Troy spent more and more time away from the ocean. What was originally conceived as a surfing-centered voyage became a hitchhiking odyssey across vast swaths of the Latin American, European, and African interiors. There were occasional opportunities to surf, but Troy’s interests broadened with each passing mile. Still, there was no doubting the significance of his globe-trotting to the international surfing community. Peter Troy was, one of the Australians who discovered Lagundri Bay with him opined, “the grand-daddy of surf exploration,” spending years on the road with a backpack, some instruments with which to write, and a dwindling reserve of funds.²⁶ However, he was nowhere near as successful in popularizing surf exploration as were a couple of Southern California teenagers in the mid-1960s. Robert August and Mike Hynson are, to surfing enthusiasts today, house hold names. This is not because the two photogenic teens—one a blond-haired regularfoot, the other a dark-haired goofyfooter—racked up any championship trophies; neither of them, in fact, was a professional competitive surfer. Rather, August and Hynson just happened to be asked by a budding twenty-something film-maker whether they wanted to appear in his new movie.