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With the ever-busy Auberge de Salanfe (see ssss1) standing at the northeastern corner of the reservoir at 1942m, the Tour Sallière apparently blocking the western end of the lake, and the SE Face of the Dents du Midi rising to its north, this is a truly dramatic and understandably popular location. No wonder the English-language interim guide to the district described it as ‘a sort of “seaside” resort for the Rhône valley townships below’. With clouds hanging in the basin it can seem a haunted place, but on clear days of sunshine it has a unique and exquisite kind of beauty.

For a brief one-off visit a stroll along the south shore of the lake will provide perspective and memorable views (clouds permitting, that is), but the north side gives more variety, especially if you head through the marshy meadows and go part-way towards the Col de Susanfe. And then there’s an undemanding 45min walk northeast of the auberge that leads to Col du Jorat on a broad path used by the TDM (described in 1:2); the col being especially rewarding for those who are unfamiliar with the east side of the Dents du Midi range.