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Though not so well known as the Tour des Dents du Midi described in 1:2, the clockwise Tour du Ruan is another multi-day trek worth the consideration of walkers wishing to understand better the topography of this corner of the Alps. Roughly half the route is spent across the French border, and views are memorable on every stage. (For information see www.tourduruan.com) The route is also described by Hilary Sharp in Trekking in the Alps.


Day 1: Leaving Auberge de Salanfe go round the south side of the Salanfe lake and climb the narrow hanging valley leading to Col d’Emaney, from where the tip of the Matterhorn can be seen far to the east. Descend into the head of the little valley below the Pointes d’Aboillon, wander down the glen to the Emaney chalets, then break away on an alternative path which crosses the stream and climbs to the Col de Fenestral at 2451m. With the Mont Blanc range in view, go down to the Finestral alpage, then contour round to Lac d’Emosson and cross the massive dam wall (more great views of Mont Blanc). Either continue along a service road, or take a signed path through the Gorge du Vieux towards the southern end of Lac du Vieux Emosson. The timber-built Refuge Vieux Emosson (2200m) stands below the dam that closes the eastern end of the lake, and is gained about 7½–8hrs after setting out.

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