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La Verna sanctuary offers accommodation (Stage 3)

Unless otherwise indicated, establishments listed in the route description are open all year round, although off-season can be hit-or-miss as impromptu closures are not unheard of. Whatever time of year you go, don’t turn up unannounced but always phone ahead – or book by email where possible – to check there is a free bed and give them time to cater for you. Be aware that mid-August is peak holiday time in Italy and advance reservation is strongly recommended for hot spots such as Lago Santo Modenese, not to mention rifugi on Saturday evenings in summer, as many put up local walking groups. Lastly, remember that the majority of the road passes are served by buses, enabling you to detour to a nearby village and hotel if need be, an added bonus which gives visitors a rare glimpse into farming communities with vestiges of traditional life.

Dinnertime at Rifugio Lago Scaffaiolo (Stage 14)

The rifugi (plural of rifugio) are marvellous hostel-like huts mostly run by CAI, the Italian Alpine Club, but open to everyone. Reachable only on foot they are manned by a custodian (gestore) and a merry band of helpers and provide bunk beds in dormitories, along with a café and restaurant service; most also have hot showers. CAI cardholders and members of overseas alpine clubs with reciprocal rights are entitled to discounted rates. UK residents can join either CAI or its Austrian counterpart – see Appendix C. A quick note on hut etiquette: walking boots should be left in the entrance hall where slippers or flip-flops are usually available for guests; from 10pm to 6am it’s ‘lights out’ and silence. Unless specified otherwise, guests need their own sleeping sheet and towel.