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The former residence of expatriate British writer Lawrence Durrell, the cube-shaped White House is now a charming restaurant with accommodation.

Immediately after the building take the steps to the waterfront and jetty and proceed along the beach of Kalami (1hr) with its eateries.

At the far end take the steps to the road and follow the tarmac up the hill to an intersection where you need the downhill fork for Kouloura. At the bottom you go right for the promontory housing highly photogenic Kouloura, with its petite harbour for fishing boats, taverna and 11th-century church.


The charming harbour at Kouloura

Backtrack to the last turnoff and keep straight ahead to the beach of Chouchoulio, shaded by towering eucalyptus trees. Near an old building at the far end is a path signed for Kerasia. This leads around the next point to a quiet pebble beach which concludes at low cliffs. These are avoided as the path forks left for a lovely wander across the low headland. Just after another small beach ignore the turn-off left for overgrown ‘Public path main road’ and keep on the level way in the company of masses of white sea squills and thorny bushes. Kerasia beach (45min) is a lovely conclusion to the walk. The long quiet pebbly beach is backed with shady eucalypts, and there’s a taverna at the far end.

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