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Return the same way to Kaminaki (1hr 45min). Alternatively, if you want to call it a day here, look for the sign halfway along the beach pointing inland for a route leading up to the main road.

WALK 2

Kalami to Menegoulas loop

Start/Finish Kalami Distance 15km Ascent/Descent 550m/550m Grade 2–3 Walking time 5hr Refreshments Porta, Kaminaki, Nissaki bay, Agni, Kalami Access Kalami is 1.5km off the main coastal road: if you catch the bus (Kassiopi line), ask the driver where to get off; from the bus stop it’s 20min on foot down to the waterfront where the walk starts

This is an excellent – if long and tiring – circuit above the northeastern coast, for which walking boots are recommended. The walk starts at the lovely bay of Kalami, which boasts a quiet pebble beach, a supermarket and a scatter of smart tavernas. The way climbs through olive groves and small villages to the austere, arid middle reaches of the island’s highest mountain, Oros Pandokratoras (Mount Pandokratoras). Afterwards it plunges back to the glorious coast for an exceptionally pretty jaunt from cove to cove: walkers are spoilt for choice of swimming spots. The route is inadvisable in hot weather due to the ascent involved and the longish stretches where shade is a scarce commodity. Take plenty of water and food; the only café on the inland stretch is located at Porta, although once you’re back on the seafront they are plentiful. Waymarking is fairly good except on the mountain, so follow the directions carefully.

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