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Last but not least, I am very grateful to Jonathan Williams of Cicerone Press who decided to publish the book in spite of my imperfect English, which needed additional editing. His understanding and appreciation of the book is a great honour to me. In addition I would like to thank Lois Sparling, Clare Crooke and Neil Simpson at Cicerone Press, who have guided me through the preparation stages.

Front cover: Pidmo village in the Zanskar Valley

CONTENTS

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Travelling and sightseeing in Ladakh

On the trek

1 Kharnak

Introduction

Stage 1 Kharu to camp beyond Shang Sumdo

Stage 2 Camp beyond Shang Sumdo to waterfall camp

Stage 3 Waterfall camp to Nyimaling via the Gongmaru La

Stage 4 Nyimaling to Langthang Valley via the Kongka Ngonpo

Stage 5 Langthang Valley to Gunlus Valley

Stage 6 Gunlus Valley to near Dat village, Kharnak Valley