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I knew I would have to return again and again to experience the fabulous trekking trails, enchanting villages and magical monasteries. Trekking in the wild gorges, climbing to a high pass dusted with pristine snow, hiking under crystal-clear skies, enjoying a freshly brewed cup of tea with a stranger – these are the special qualities of Ladakh that stay in the memory forever.

To satisfy my newfound addiction I spent four months there in 2009, exploring the landscapes on foot, and covering more than 1000 kilometres. And still Ladakh draws me back! I remember leaving the region in late October 2009, at the approach of winter. As the plane took off, we flew over Spituk Gompa and then turned towards the southeast. I looked down at the passes I had and had not yet crossed, dreaming of re-walking the first and exploring the latter.

I am lucky to have had the chance to visit Ladakh a few more times since this guidebook was first published. I’ve re-trekked major parts of some routes and tested a few new options. There are some changes in the book based on this experience. January 2014 found me trying to trek in Ladakh in winter; and now, here I am again, getting ready for another winter trek!

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