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Knowing a bit of the local language always helps in relations when travelling regardless of whether English is also spoken. One word that you must learn is julley, meaning ‘hello’, ‘goodbye’, as well as ‘thank you’. Some useful words and phrases are listed in Appendix C. If you want to know more get hold of a copy of the Ladakhi phrasebook (see Appendix F) that was published a few years ago and is easily available in every bookshop in Leh.

Tips on travelling in India

India has been a popular destination for years. As with many places in the world, this means that, on one hand, tourist facilities of vastly different standards are easily available; and on the other, of those people who make their living through tourism, some will, unfortunately, behave dishonestly.

Accommodation options, for example, range from a plethora of simple guesthouses with varying facilities, starting at around Rs300 per night, to five-star hotels of the famous Taj group at over Rs10,000 for a room. Generally you do not need to book rooms in guesthouses or hostels in advance. Bus tickets for long journeys can usually be arranged one day in advance; short trips can be taken on the spot. Train and bus tickets may both be booked online.