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Although Manali (at about 1900m) is not at a sufficiently high elevation for you to acclimatise fully to the altitude of Leh, staying a few days and taking day-long hikes will certainly help. The scenery is spectacular and there are plenty of trips to do, with a number of interesting temples.

View of the Lesser Himalayas around Manali

MANALI

Manali is located in the upper Beas River Valley, southeast of the Pir Panjal Range (part of the Lesser Himalayas) in the Kullu Valley region in Himachal Pradesh state. It is an important mountain resort for both Indian and foreign tourists. Hiking, trekking, cycling, skiing, white-water rafting, paragliding and rock climbing are popular here. The nearest airport is about 50km from the town.

The town has two parts, Manali and Old Manali, the latter being the main foreign tourist section. There are dozens of cheap hotels, restaurants and shops; Rockway Cottage is a quiet accommodation option. If you arrive by a private bus, you may be dropped at Old Manali; otherwise you will probably be dropped at or near the Manali bus station. As you stand at the bus station with the Beas River on your right, the main street – the Mall – is on your left. To get to Old Manali, follow it upwards until you arrive at a roundabout, about 150m further. Take the main street slightly to the left. Follow it for 1.5km with a spruce forest on your right (hotels and shops left). Reach a bridge over a side river, the Manalsu Nala. Old Manali is on the other side; to find the main part, cross the bridge and go left. There are number of guesthouses and restaurants by the main road, 250m from the bridge. To get to the author’s favourite guesthouse – Rockway Cottage, off the road – look for a sign at the first loop in the road.