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There are a few state-owned buses from Manali to Keylong each day, leaving in the morning. As the snow of the Rohtang Pass is a day attraction for Indian tourists, leaving Manali no later than 6am is crucial to avoid traffic jams on the pass. The ordinary bus costs Rs130 and takes 7hrs.

Crossing the Rohtang Pass (3970m) over the Pir Panjal Range you leave the Kullu Valley and enter the region of Lahaul. Beautiful forests give way to vast treeless areas of green meadows, bare slopes and glaciated peaks. From the pass you descend along the Chandra River as far as its confluence with the Bhaga at Tandi. Upstream along the Bhaga, the road reaches Keylong after a few kilometres.

KEYLONG

Situated high above the Bhaga River, on sheer slopes, Keylong is the capital of the Lahaul region of northern Himachal Pradesh. It is a predominantly Buddhist area with a few monasteries; the scenery is fantastic. It is a much quieter, smaller place than Manali, definitely worth more attention than a brief overnight stop on the way to Ladakh. The main road to Leh is above the main part of the town, and there is a new bus station below the road. To reach the hotels nearby walk down from the bus station then follow the main street to the right (west) for around 200m. The Gyespa (www.gyespahotels.webs.com) is a nice simple hotel with a good restaurant (prices start at Rs300 for a double room). For a great momo (Tibetan dumpling) and momo soup check out a small restaurant on the main street, 100m from the Gyespa, on the right towards the bus station.