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Acknowledgements

On early trips I dragged along Anna Z., then Marty, whose unrivalled chauffeur services were immensely appreciated; Libby, who miraculously survived Stromboli – inclusive of unpredictable wind changes; and Anna M. and Damiano, who actually enjoy picnicking in the fog.

A special thank you to Girolamo Lombardo of the Palermo Tourist Board, indefatigable pioneer in local cartography; Giovanni Mineo and Luigia Di Gennaro of the Cooperativa Artemisia in Palermo; Gaetano Perricone and vulcanologist Salvatore Caffo of the Etna Park; Carmelo Magaraci and Sara La Rosa at the Alcantara Park; Giovanni Vacante at the Madonie Park. Forestry Department staff photocopied maps and pointed us the right way, Luciano Buccheri and his hospitable crew at Pantalica top of the list. Italian Alpine Club branches at Cefalù and Palermo were very helpful, as was Mario Vaccarella of Petralia Sottana. Melanie Kneip and Andrea Mazzaglia had good suggestions on Etna, as did the Magma Trek staff for Stromboli. Professor Schicchi of Palermo University kindly sent the photo of the rare pine tree in Walk 37. Thanks to the readers who let me know of route changes, Pamela Harris and Alan Norton in particular.