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More recently, island life was convulsed during World War Two, ending with the Allied landings in 1943 for the move north and the liberation of occupied Italy. In 1946 Sicily was declared an autonomous region, with a special statute and governing body that enjoys a high degree of political independence.

One unique phenomena needs a brief comment in the context of history: the Mafia. It is believed to have originated in the Middle Ages to overthrow foreign invaders, its members taken from the private armies (mafie) of landlords. The nefarious organisation known to insiders as Cosa Nostra (our affair) continues to prosper parallel to state authority, rife with age-old payoffs and rivalries. It was dealt a near mortal blow under fascism; however the war years meant recovery, possibly aided by the US use of Mafia cohorts in the Allied invasion. Of late, mafiosi turned state witnesses have provided precious evidence about the organisation, though at the terrible price of numerous lives, leading magistrates and lawkeepers in first place. All but invisible to outsiders who are unaffected by events, it is prospering and shows no sign at all of dying out. This is confirmed by recurrent reports in the Sicilian and national daily press and TV of Mafia-related crime and inquiries. Such news should remove any doubts harboured by visitors that it is only the stuff of films nowadays. Background reading is warmly recommended and several suggestions are listed in the Further Reading section.

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