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Eons ago a minor volcano discharged a massive flow of lava that followed the same course, spreading a good 20km. The rock is basalt, solidified from a long-gone volcanic cone. This translates into flashing black walls of infinite angles that reflect the sparkling waters.

Tree trunks carried by the current once served as makeshift links between one bank and the other, though ruins of numerous bridges still dot the banks – presumably the reason for the Arabic origin for Alcantara, from al Qàntarah for ‘bridge’. Fertile imaginations however attribute the origin to a legendary construction thrown across by the devil in a single night. In any case historical records of navigating the waterway date back to ancient times, many involving the proximity of the first Greek colony in Sicily, at Naxos below Taormina.

The most spectacular stretch of the river – and one of Sicily’s top tourist attractions – is the Gole di Larderia, usually referred to as the Gole dell’Alcantara, 15km inland and well signposted. A narrow gauge railway ran along the valley 1958–1978 and encouraging talks are currently underway to re-open the line for tourists. In the meantime the area is accessible by either car or Interbus on the SS 185. Steps lead down to the valley floor (note: there’s a free-of-charge ‘Comunale’ entrance).