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The lane above the fountain leads past a sign for the 16th-century castle (ruderi castello mediovale), and to a concrete ramp uphill. A path takes over, climbing steadily south past derelict sheds. Overgrown at times, it leads onto open hillsides thick with stunning spring orchids. A ridge is soon gained, where inspiring views range from the Peloritani mountains west, with the highest peak Montagna Grande, and all the way down the Alcantara River valley past the precarious village of Motta Camastra to the Ionian Sea. Moreover close at hand are the castle ruins (50min, 450m), beyond which stands the photogenic town of Castiglione di Sicilia backed by the almost ghostly presence of Etna. It is possible to clamber up a narrow path amongst the crumbling walls on the narrow ridge, but take special care as it is a little exposed and can be slippery.
Return the same way to Piazza Matrice (20min). Turn left down the narrow street lined with tiny stone dwellings to Piazza San Francesco, site of a museum. Continue in the same direction on Via S. Francesco which soon becomes an unsurfaced lane. This passes an archaeological site under plastic roofing where evidence of a 4th-century BC settlement of exiles from Naxos has been discovered. Take the next lane left for the descent towards the river. Through scented orange groves you curve beneath the castle. Soon after a prominent oak tree, turn right on a path lined by a high stone wall. Not far along are stone steps that drop to the peaceful banks of the Alcantara River at an iron footbridge (30min, 300m), property of the Electricity Commission ENEL. This is a good spot for a picnic with the shade of oleander trees, and allows you to admire the smooth black rock flanks, and even a kingfisher or harmless black snake. Note the curious system of irrigation channels that branch off at the nearby cascades; they date back hundreds of years to the Arabic period and, still referred to in local dialect as saja, the original term, they convey precious water to the thirsty citrus orchards. Long stretches are hewn into the volcanic rock face.