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Endemic mouse-ear on lava

In 1987 an area of 59,000 hectares came under the auspices of the Parco dell’Etna. The headquarters at Nicolosi (Tel 095-821111) occupy an atmospheric Benedictine monastery, recently restored with great care. Several sentieri natura, marked nature trails, run through zones of special interest. In general walking is on forestry tracks, though waymarking is all but absent on many routes. Orientation can be tricky in the thick woods as well as on the open lavic terrain which is all but devoid of useful landmarks; it is especially difficult and dangerous if low cloud and mist roll in – not uncommon. Moreover, the high iron content of the rock can play havoc with compass readings. Remember that stormy conditions, snowfalls and strong winds high up are common even in summer, and it is extremely inadvisable to set out on any of the walks in adverse weather.

As the seasons go, remember that the upper half of Etna is usually snowbound for approximately four months of the year (December through to March), an attractive proposition for experienced ski tourers and marvellous for photography. Unless snowshoeing appeals (the Park runs a programme with guides) walkers are better off waiting. May–June is recommended for the high-altitude flora, July–August can be scorchingly hot on the lower reaches, while the autumn months bring crisp clear skies and russet woods.

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