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Some notes on the natural inhabitants of the mountain are in order. Lava, ‘the black milk of Etna’s breast’, in the words of Carlo Levi, means a dearth of nitrogen, an essential element for plant life. Notwithstanding, it is colonised by a succession of fascinating plant types and can even be dated by the vegetation it supports. First off the mark are lichens and algae, which obtain nitrogen from the air and attach themselves to the rock surfaces, paving the way for the pioneer species such as milk vetch and the ubiquitous Etna broom shrubs, whose strong roots help break up the solidified lava. Then come prickly pear, fruit-bearing trees and olives, with grape vines last of all.

Vegetation on the mountain fits into three clear altitude bands: the lowest, from sea level to around 1000m, densely cultivated, is characterised by grapes, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, figs and fruit orchards that thrive on the fertile volcanic soil; this is followed by steeper terrain which is cloaked with broom and woods of chestnut, oak and beech (which holds the European record for altitude here, growing as high as 2250m), as well as a relic from the ice ages, the endemic birch, which resembles the Scandinavian variety. These precede the over 2000m band, or ‘desert’, of ashes and sand. This apparently barren lavic terrain is suited to a surprising array of flowering species, such as two special daisies, Etna camomile and ragwort, which make it up to an incredible 3050m, closely followed by a sort of crimson sorrel. A little beneath them, the fine sand is anchored by striking tussocks of milk-vetch, Astragalus siculus or Spino santo, ‘holy thorn’, which provides hospitality for other plants such as Etna mouse-ear. Further endemics, the Etna violet and soapwort, which comes in pink cushions, also belong here.