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Some facts and figures help give a fuller picture of Sicily. The largest of the Mediterranean islands, its territory embraces 37 minor islands, some volcanic. A total of 25,708 sq km are occupied by a population of over 5 million, which averages out at 194 inhabitants per square kilometre, or half a hectare per head. The island is 270km in length and 180km in breadth, though described by Arab traveller Ibn Hawqal in the 11th century as ‘seven days long [by walking], four days broad’. It lies a mere 143km north of Tunisia in north Africa, while on the other hand it is divided from the main Italian land mass by the Strait of Messina, 3km across at its narrowest and 20km at its broadest.

An ambitious State project is in the pipeline to bridge the passage. However opposition is widespread as many say the funds could be better used upgrading the island’s rail and road networks, in desperate need of maintenance. Others emphasise the unsuitability of the site, citing the disastrous 1908 earthquake and tidal wave that struck Messina leaving over 60,000 dead and 91% of the city flattened. Moreover this natural channel is run through by treacherous swirling currents and whirlpools, the dread of ancient mariners who feared being shipwrecked and devoured by the ghastly lurking she-monsters Scylla and Charybdis, who put paid to many of Ulysses’ men.