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Walkers pause to be sure, after hearing the sound of falling rocks

The national park is officially open 1 May–31 October, with an entrance fee (€7 in 2014). These dates can vary depending on springtime trail preparation work, the level of the water in the river, and autumn weather conditions. The ‘Gorge Lazy Way’ tour, for those who cannot manage the whole walk, starts earlier in the year. Excursionists arrive by boat at Ay. Roumeli for the 2hr 30min round walk to see Portes, the very narrow and impressive so-called ‘Iron Gates’ part of the gorge.

When the gorge is open the last boat from Ay. Roumeli to Hora Sfakion departs at 1700 although this can change to 1730 or even 1830 in high season. Certain runs call in at Loutro, and another departure serves Souyia. Visit the Sfakia ferries website – details in Appendix D – for all current timetables. Journey time in either direction is about 45mins, depending on the weather. A call at Loutro adds 30mins. The last KTEL evening bus to Chania (usually packed) waits for the boat. The ticket kiosk with the daily timetable is at the bottom of Ay. Roumeli main street, on the right. You can always enquire at the Tara or Calypso tavernas on the waterfront (landlords speak English) if anything unusual seems to be happening about the schedule.