Читать книгу The High Mountains of Crete. The White Mountains, Psiloritis and Lassithi Mountains онлайн

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There are no commercial outlets inside the park. There is no camping. Various guidebooks are on sale at Xyloscala, Omalos and Ay. Roumeli. The park closes at the top at 1500 to through-walkers but remains open to those (usually with a hired car) who wish to walk a short way down to see the view, before returning to the top again. Organised day-tours have left Xyloscala by midday, so an early afternoon start allows you to walk down relatively undisturbed. Otherwise, since the ‘rush hour(s)’ are early morning up to about 1100, try to be first at the entrance at 0600 when the ticket kiosk opens. This early start is well worth it, as this marvellous walk is downgraded if too many people are doing it at the same time. A daily average of up to 2000 trippers is quite normal. Fortunately the gorge is so huge, and so rugged, that this foot traffic makes no serious impact. Walkers seem as nothing compared to the ravages of the thaw from the surrounding mountains as the winter ends.

The park makes a significant cultural contribution by inducing town-dwelling Cretans to rediscover the beauty and worth of their own countryside and the pleasures of walking. Locals can choose their day: overcast, cool Sundays are preferred, when whole families can be seen trooping down alongside the tourists. Local schoolteachers may also take their pupils on the walk.