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SADEM Tel 800 801600 (tel 011 3000611 from a mobile phone) www.sadem.it does Torino-Aosta runs as well as serving Torino's Caselle airport.

SAVDA Tel 800 170444 or 0165 367011 www.savda.it covers Cogne, Courmayeur, La Thuile, Valgrisenche, Val di Rhêmes and Valsavarenche.

For information on the local Cogne runs (to Valnontey, Lillaz and Gimillan) contact the Cogne Tourist Office (Tel 0165 74040) www.cogne.org.

VITA Tel 0125 966546 for Valle di Champorcher www.vitagroup.it.

Between July and September the park runs a handy on-demand mini bus that links the Valle d'Aosta valleys. Tel 339 5443364 or 331 4950951 www.grand-paradis.it.

When to go

Lago Goletta (Walk 17)

The park area and surroundings are naturally open all year, but access is subject to snow cover, avalanches and landslides which close paths and occasionally roads. The most suitable period for non-skiing visits is May to October. The high-altitude refuges function from late June to late September, although you can base yourself at any of the valley resorts at other times of the year. In May and June herds of ibex graze the fresh new grass on valley floors and even around roads and settlements, but by midsummer they have returned to their rocky spurs and can be seen at about 2200m, never far from chamois.