Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

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Although pegs are still required in some situations, climbers should attempt to apply modern rock-climbing ethics as far as possible to winter climbs. Fortunately, it is often the gullies with their poorer rock that require pegs, while many of the more open buttress routes on better granite can be adequately protected with nuts and so on. Attempts should be made to limit the use of pegs on all climbs, especially those that are also popular summer climbs.

It is worth selecting a climb with conditions in mind for both safety and enjoyment. Climbing behind other parties on ice routes usually brings with it the danger of dislodged ice, and this is best avoided if at all possible. In thawing conditions there can be a very real danger from ice and rock fall, particularly in some of the easier gullies, where the rock may be of dubious quality and can be loosened by freeze–thaw action during the winter. Hooking and torquing of axes behind blocks can leaver them off, especially if the ground is not well frozen. There have been serious accidents resulting from both rock and ice fall.