Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

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Winter climbing ethics are strongly held in Scotland, especially when it comes to mixed climbs on buttresses and ridges. To be in acceptable winter condition, buttresses should be generally white, there should be snow on the rocks, and turf should be well frozen. Snow on the ledges and dry rocks is generally not held to be sufficient, neither is a coating of hoar frost.

Early morning light on the approach to Creag Meagaidh (photo: Steve Fortune)

The size and scale of the crags and the approaches make the ability to navigate essential even for a visit to the closest of the cliffs. Bad weather can occur at any time, with winds of over 100mph being common, and gusts well in excess of that speed often being encountered. Gale-force winds may blow continually for days or even weeks at a time. Much of the high plateau is featureless, and in a white-out accurate navigation is sometimes needed to find the cliff – and more is often required to find the way back after the climb. To climb safely in this area requires sound winter-mountaineering skills.