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Routes and Grades

The usual winter-climbing two-tier grading system has been used in this guide. The first grade, a Roman numeral, indicates the overall difficulty of the route. This gives some indication of seriousness. The second, an Arabic number, indicates the technical difficulty of the climbing.

Grade I

Uncomplicated snow climbs that have no pitches under average conditions. However, cornice difficulties may be encountered, there can be dangerous run-outs, and the avalanche hazard is often high in the snowy confines of a Grade I gully.

Grade II

Gullies that have individual or minor pitches or high angled snow. Cornices can be difficult. Also the easiest buttresses under winter conditions.

Grade III

Gullies that contain ice in quantity. There is normally one big pitch and often several smaller ones. The buttresses are fairly sustained.

Grade IV

Routes of sustained technical difficulty. Short vertical steps or longer sections of 60–70° ice expected in gullies. Buttresses require a good range of climbing techniques or are long and sustained.