Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

44 страница из 64

The Haston Line 100m III,4

D Haston and party, 1965

The obvious lower left-slanting fault starting from the right corner of the buttress. There is an awkward corner moving up to easier ground and a choice of finishes on the upper snow slopes.

The Slant 150m I/II

A diagonal snow line running left across the buttress. Start a pitch up Jacob’s Ladder at a big recess. Climb up and left by the obvious line to open slopes on the front face and continue going left to finish up the big upper snow field.

Hidden Chimney 110m III**

Climb The Slant for about two pitches to gain the right side of the most continuous upper buttress. Climb the chimney on its right side to the top, passing over a prominent chokestone.

Direct Start 40m IV,5*

A good pitch that can be climbed for its own sake. Climb the prominent right-facing corner starting from the toe of the buttress. Ice makes a difference to the grade, and it is getting harder as vegetation goes.

Jacob’s Edge 90m I/II

Start up The Slant for about a pitch and a half then slant back rightwards to finish up snow slopes overlooking Jacob’s Ladder. Alternatively, go almost to the foot of Hidden Chimney and slant back right towards the edge.