Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

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In icy conditions a combination of the lower groove of Doctor Janis and the upper groove of The Genie gives a very fine icy climb at about V,6.

The Genie 110m V,7***

G Smith and G Ball, 1979

The central of the three main corners right of Doctor’s Choice gives a good climb. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and follow the lower of the slabby ramps going left and then open corners to where the cliff steepens up. A short crack running up to below a roof leads into a left-facing corner. This is climbed to a stance below the main corner, which is followed to the top of the buttress.

The Magic Crack 90m VII,7**

A Huber and A Mullin, 10 March 1999; A Cunningham and A Nisbet, 7 December 1985 (White Magic)

Takes the eye-catching thin crack right of The Genie. Climb The Genie for two pitches to the belay below its main corner (50m). Traverse right to gain the finger crack and follow it to the overlap and a belay on the left (20m). Strenuous but well protected. Gain a right-slanting crack over the overlap, then another crack leading back left to thin moves onto the final slab (20m). Finish easily or descend in two abseils from in situ gear. The original winter line (White Magic, VI,7) climbs the first three pitches as described. The fourth pitch traverses right under an overlap to a ledge, and then finishes up a narrow chimney.