Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

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A good climb which takes a huge detour to reach the largest left-facing corner in the upper part of the buttress. Start below this upper corner and climb the fault up to just below the big cave, sometimes on ice, and belay in top-left corner of the cave. Move down and go left onto the rib and follow the diagonal break left for a pitch into a snow bay. Leave this first bay on the right and gain easy ground. Go right and finish up the big corner, which is better with ice. If there is little ice, the narrow chimney of The Prodigal Principal provides a fine alternative finish.

Doctor Janis 130m V,7*

J Grosset, J Lyall and A Nolan, 4 April 1987

Takes a series of corners on the right of the big fault of Doctor’s Choice. Start on the right side of the bay below Doctor’s Choice. Climb the main groove slanting right, cross an overlap and continue up to the steep wall at about mid-height. Take a slanting groove/ramp cutting back left to a ledge. Return right and gain the upper groove, which slants back rightwards.