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The finger crack of The Magic Crack

Salvation 100m VI,7*

S Aisthorpe and J Lyall, 27 December 1987

This route is on the cracked slabs right of The Magic Crack and main corner of Damnation, VI,6, the rightmost left-facing corner. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and climb about 10m up the higher slabby ramp going left. Leave the ramp via a short chimney/groove then pass left of a short wall to a broad ramp. Break through the overlap above at some flakes and climb thin cracks up the slab. The overlap can also be climbed about 3m right of the flakes. Move up right to a block, then follow the continuation crack to the top.

Patey’s Route 120m IV,5**

TW Patey, February 1959

The wide chimney on the right side of the buttress is very popular and a fairly reliable route. Generally, the more ice, the easier it is. There is bulge at about mid-height which is difficult, and a top chokestone is usually turned by going out left then returning right by a long move back right into the chimney line.