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Broken Gully 130m III

TW Patey, J McArtney and J Cleare, February 1967

The gully between the main part of the buttress and Fingers Ridge is good to start, then the upper section is wide and straightforward. Start from the top of the first bay right of the lowest rock. Climb steeply up and right until it is possible to go left by a short wide crack onto the top of a slabby pillar near the top of the pitch. Move left into the main funnel-shaped upper gully, which is easy and offers a choice of lines. The Left-Hand Start climbs directly into the upper gully by a narrower fault and is generally harder, but needs ice.

Fingers Ridge 140m IV,4**

JR Dempster and J Wallace, 19 January 1969

The slabby ridge between Broken and Red Gullies has two prominent pinnacles high up where the buttress narrows. It is a popular route, although the upper part of the ridge has some loose blocks and is best avoided in thaw conditions. Start just at the foot of Red Gully and go diagonally left for a pitch to a good ledge by a short deep corner on the left side of the buttress. From the left side of the ledge climb the blunt rib very close to Broken Gully, trend right and climb a flake to gain the obvious open groove. Climb the right-facing groove (escape in to Broken Gully is possible here), then the pinnacled ridge to a narrow col, then to the top. The short wall at the end of the col may be the crux if climbed direct, but can be avoided on either side.