Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн
59 страница из 64
Fiacaill Couloir from above
A busy day in the Northern Corries
Straight to Jail 50m V,5*D Jarvis and B Ottewell, April 1996
The steep groove above the start of Escapologist. Follow Escapologist to above the obvious ledge. Move right to gain a steep groove and climb this to the midway ledge. Needs good ice to be at this grade.
Men in Black 50m VI,8G Ettle and M Garthwaite, 31 January 1998
This climb takes the wide corner crack left of Houdini to finish on the midway ledge. Start up Escapologist for 10m, then move right to a left-facing corner crack (15m). Climb the wide crack past two essential chokestones to easier climbing and a good ledge (15m). Move right into Houdini – there is a wide crack splitting the wall on the right, and the route climbs the thinner crack on its left to the ledge (20m).
Houdini 160m VI,7**A Cunningham and A Fyffe, February 1990
An intricate but excellent line up the left face. Start in the middle of the lower tier and climb the main left-slanting groove, then trend left to the midway ledge. Climb a short wide corner to a big ledge with flakes and traverse delicately right to gain ramps, which are followed a short way to reach the left side of a big block. Go right and climb the groove/ramp going right, and above the chokestone head up by thin climbing to below the final wall. Climb this wall by going left into a niche then up to gain the step.