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Fiacaill Couloir

Smokestack Lightnin’ 100m VI,7*

A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 16 February 1990

A fine but escapable route which zig-zags up the buttress to the left of Fiacaill Couloir. Start in a bay just left of the base of Fiacaill Couloir and climb this to a ledge. Traverse left to some large blocks. Climb a corner on the left, and then trend back rightwards to another ledge. Traverse left to below a deep overhung corner. Either climb this corner (strenuous but well protected) or gain a hanging flake on the left and use it to pull left round onto the front face. Either way, a slanting corner above gives access to the crest of the ridge. Climb this to a barrier wall and make a descending leftward traverse for about 10m (crossing Houdini) to a chimney, which is climbed to easier ground.

Fiacaill Couloir 150m II/III**

TW Patey, 17 January 1958

The big diagonal gully offers a choice of lines to the top, where the final chokestone can be hard if the build-up is poor. It can be interesting and icy or steep snow. Above the col go diagonally left to gain the plateau.