Читать книгу Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh онлайн

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Scottish winter climbing can be a hazardous pastime. The weather is often unfavourable and can change with startling suddenness, transforming a pleasant excursion into a battle for survival. Too many people have underestimated these mountains and paid the ultimate price. It is essential to be well equipped – both physically and mentally – before setting off on a winter route. Having the correct equipment must be accompanied by the ability to use it properly. When the weather, the conditions and the climb are right, then winter climbing in the Cairngorms can offer an unforgettable experience.

Conditions

Good climbing conditions can occur in this area at any time between November and April, although February and March tend to be the most reliable months. In some years winter climbs can be in condition as early as October and as late as May. Winter ascents have even been made in June!

Part of the challenge of winter climbing is correctly predicting climbing conditions and choosing suitable objectives accordingly. Knowing when, for example, it is better to go for a buttress route rather than a gully, or whether to push your grade or try something well within your capabilities, can make the difference between a great day’s climbing and an unpleasant and potentially dangerous expedition. However, predicting conditions can be tricky, especially for those based far from the mountains. Observing and learning how the weather affects the climbs is the first stage – how much thaw and refreeze is required to produce good ice, how long it takes for the turf to freeze and for the rocks to rime up, whether the ice will be hard and brittle or soft and plastic. In the past this knowledge was often hard-won, with many climbing trips ending in disappointment due to poor conditions in the chosen venue. These days, however, with a plethora of up-to-date conditions blogs, web cams and winter-climbing forums, it is easier to stay well informed on current conditions, especially for popular areas.