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In the tourist areas there are bars and restaurants and market stalls selling all kinds of gifts, but national specialities such as the famous Tokaj wine or the rather strong spirit made from fruit, pálinka, are cheaper in the ordinary supermarkets away from the main tourist drag. If planning to visit the Zemplén do not buy ceramics on Váci utca but visit the factory shop in Hollóháza.

Food and hospitality is central to Hungarian culture but the diversity of traditional Hungarian cuisine owes more to Ottoman and Habsburg domination than to the culinary skills of the nomadic Magyars. Today Hungarians are even more open to outside influences, and eating out in Budapest ranges from fast food to haute cuisine. Vegetarian restaurants and salad bars are a new addition to this traditionally carnivorous culture. Budapest’s restaurants and cafés need not be expensive, but if on a budget avoid establishments in the tourist district around Vörösmarty tér and along Váci utca. For a Hungarian experience and a glimpse at the underbelly of Budapest, order a plate of fried fish, sausage and a hunk of bread washed down with a beer from one of the many snack bars up on the gallery of the big indoor market. Before the tradition dies out make sure you try one of the butcher shops (Hús-hentesáru); as well as selling meat they offer cheap fry-ups with beer on the premises. Alternatively, explore the side streets for a cheap Hungarian restaurant. In the last ten years there has been a boom in bars catering for expats missing their regular tipple, but for the cheapest drinking and local colour try a typical Hungarian pub, or söröző.