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For the walker spring is a pleasant season to get up to the hills, when early flowers brighten the karst meadows, fruit trees are heavy with blossom and the forest full of birdsong. Hungarians often complain that spring is too short, and the transition from winter to summer does seem quite rapid. It can be cool in the evenings and wet at times but expect warm weather as March progresses. Summers are long – the hot weather begins in April and lasts into early October. Midsummer temperatures can rise to 35°C (95°F) but cold fronts pass through from time to time bringing respite from the heat. Summer brings occasional thunderstorms, but hot and dry weather is the norm. The best time to go in summer is May or June when the greenery is still fresh, or August when the meadow flowers are in full bloom. Walkers who prefer cooler weather should consider autumn, when the northern hills experience a refreshing chill from about mid-September.

Expect more rain, but from mid-October the autumn colours in the forests are spectacular. In November the clocks change and there is less daylight walking time. Winter temperature in the hills is on average 5°C (41°F) but on extreme days it can drop to -20°C (-4°F), although the high slopes escape the temperature sink effect experienced on the Great Plain. The northern hills are the coldest and expect snow between late November and March. In Hungary, as in the rest of Europe, the winter snow line has receded and there are now longer periods without cover than there were in the past. Winter weather is stable: if a day starts crisp and windless in the morning it is likely to remain that way all day. Walking across deserted trails through frozen snow is very rewarding, but many of the routes in the guide are written with longer daylight hours in mind. Hungary’s highlands do not experience alpinestyle hazards, but only experienced hill walkers should venture into thehills in winter. It is also the hunting season, so keep clear of the hills at dusk and dawn and stay on the waymarked routes.

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