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HARRIS

Ceapabhal with the machair in full flower

INTRODUCTION

The hills of North Harris are the highest in the Western Isles, but none exceeds 3000ft so they are hardly a magnet for the committed Munro bagger. At 799m (2622ft) An Cliseam is the highest and the only Corbett – a Scottish peak between 2500ft (761m) and 3000ft (914m). In good weather it is a remarkably straightforward and easy approach, starting from alongside the A859 main road between Tarbert and Stornoway, which already knocks 150m off the ascent. There are three Grahams: mountains between 2000ft (610m) and 2500ft (761m) with a drop of at least 150m (492ft) all around; in descending height they are Uisgneabhal Mòr, 729m (2390ft), Tiorga Mòr, 679m (2228ft) and Oireabhal, 662m (2170ft).

Descending the south ridge of Cleit Ard (Walk 8)

Everything else is 2000ft or less and such a modest collection of summits may lull you into thinking that days spent in the mountains of Harris are carefree and do not warrant serious planning. If anything, it is the exact opposite. Once away from the roads, the North Harris hills are a wilderness with few paths and those there are have a tendency eventually to peter out. Under foot it can be boggy and there are numerous small streams to cross. After a sudden downpour these can quickly become major obstacles that can be tricky and potentially dangerous to cross. To the west are the impassable cliffs of the Atlantic coast and to the north is the difficult terrain of Lewis where endless peat bog is pitted with a maze of lochs and lochans. In addition, the weather can change dramatically in a matter of minutes. All of these factors make it an area where walkers need to pay particular attention to navigation and risk management. But it is worth it. Where else can you walk the hills surrounded by emerald seas and quite so many silver beaches?