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There is no obvious path to the summit of Ceapabhal and any ascent is going to be arduous. Follow the coast line to the west to a stile across a stone wall. Cross this and then strike out up the hill following a band of pinkish rock that rises left to right across the hillside. This is hard going and anyone who is not a trained athlete will need frequent rests to recover their breath. It is best just to take it slowly and enjoy the view over the islands in the Sound of Harris and hills of North Uist beyond.

East ridge of Ceapabhal

Following this rock band leads around to the main ridge and eventually to easier ground that leads directly to the summit of Ceapabhal, which means ‘the bow-shaped hill’ in Norse. There is a trig point and a cairn marks the summit a few metres to the north. At 368m this is a modest hill, but the views are memorable. Taransay and the white sands of Tràigh Losgaintir and the other beaches of South Harris lie to the north-east; the now uninhabited islands of Ensay, Killegray and Pabbay and a multitude of smaller islets are scattered across the Sound of Harris to the south with Berneray and North Uist beyond. Four kilometres offshore just to the west of Pabbay lies the small island of Siolaigh, a haul-out ground for Atlantic seals. If it is particularly clear look for the Cuillin of Skye, 80km to the south-east, and the island of St Kilda, 72km away to the west.