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The magnificent Vallon delle Lede is flanked on either side by soaring rock towers (Walk 47)

Camping should be restricted to official valley sites, which are always well equipped and often in superb locations. However, a discreet pitch well off a path and away from the huts should not be a problem (unless you are in a park area, where it is strictly forbidden).

Food and drink

While this may not be the gastronomical heart of Italy, foodies will not be disappointed. The German-speaking valleys pride themselves on delicious cereal breads, such as the crunchy rounds of unleavened rye bread with cumin seeds, Völser Schüttelbrot, or a softer yeasty version. Both are a perfect taste match for thinly sliced Speck, a local smoked ham flavoured with juniper berries, coriander and garlic.

Rifugio Viel del Pan is popular with walkers (Walk 41)

In a restaurant, Knödelsuppe or canederli in brodo means traditional farm-style dumplings the size of tennis balls (made of bread blended with eggs), flavoured with Speck and served in consommé. With any luck, the pasta course will include Schlutzkrapfen, home-made ravioli filled with spinach. For a main course in the southern valleys, Tosella – a fresh cheese (vaguely resembling mozzarella) lightly fried in butter or oven-baked with cream – is definitely worth tasting. Otherwise, go for Polenta con formaggio fuso, corn meal smothered with melted cheese, hopefully accompanied by funghi, wild mushrooms. Meat eaters can order spicy goulash or variations of Bauernschmaus, smoked pork and sausages on a bed of warm Sauerkraut, stewed cabbage.